Astypalaia sits at the edge of the Dodecanese, shaped like a butterfly and split between a dramatic hilltop capital and quiet bays that feel far from the main island‑hopping routes. It is small, but not simple. The terrain rises and falls quickly, the villages each have their own rhythm, and the difference between staying in Chora, Livadi or Maltezana is enough to change the feel of your trip. This is an island where your base matters.
This guide on where to stay in Astypalaia focuses on key areas, with a clear sense of what each place feels like. I also explain tJust the practical reality of choosing a base on an island that is is all about slowing down and paying attention to its shape.
Where to Stay in Astypalaia
For most travelers, the decision comes down to Chora, Livadi, or Maltezana (Analipsi). Chora is the most atmospheric, Livadi is the easiest base for beach days, and Maltezana is the quietest choice for a slower coastal stay.
Chora
Best for first-time visitors, couples, and anyone who wants castle views, evening atmosphere, and the most memorable base on the island.
Livadi
Best for families, swimmers, and travelers who want a practical seaside base with easy beach access and quieter evenings just below Chora.
Maltezana (Analipsi)
Best for travelers who want a slower rhythm, calm water, and a more local coastal setting away from the busier feel of Chora and Livadi.
My recommendation: choose Chora for a first trip and the island’s strongest atmosphere, Livadi for easy beach days and relaxed evenings, and Maltezana if you want a quieter, slower coastal base with easier access to the eastern side of the island.
For a fuller look at the island’s history, beaches and practical logistics, my main Astypalaia travel guide gives the wider context that pairs naturally with this accommodation breakdown.
If you are still planning the journey itself, start with my practical guide on how to get from Athens to Astypalaia, which explains the flight, ferry, port, timing and connection issues before you choose where to stay.
Table of Contents
How the island is laid out
Astypalaia has three real accommodation hubs. Chora rises sharply above the sea and is the island’s most atmospheric settlement. Livadi spreads across the valley below it and offers the easiest access to a long, sheltered beach. Maltezana sits on the eastern side and keeps the feel of a fishing village. Vathy is often mentioned in guides, but it has no accommodation and works only as a day trip.
The distances between these areas are short, but the differences in mood are noticeable. Chora is lively and compact. Livadi is open and practical. Maltezana is quiet and spacious.
Chora: the most atmospheric place to stay
Chora is the part of Astypalaia that stays with you. It climbs the ridge in a tight cluster of white houses, all leaning toward the Venetian Querini Castle at the top. The lanes are narrow and often steep, twisting through small squares, bakeries and bars. The windmills at the entrance of the town give it a distinctive outline, especially in the late afternoon when the light hits the ridge.
Staying here means waking up inside the island’s most atmospheric setting. You can walk to the castle, wander through the alleys, stop for a drink in the square and watch the lights come on across the bay. Many guesthouses have terraces facing the Aegean or the castle walls, and the views alone are enough to make Chora the first choice for many visitors.
The trade‑off is practical. Parking is limited, and the centre is not designed for cars. Most people leave their vehicle outside the core of the village and explore on foot. If you enjoy walking and want to be close to food, nightlife and the island’s most recognisable corners, Chora is the best base.
Chora suits travellers who want to feel the island immediately. It is ideal for first‑timers, couples, photographers and anyone who prefers to walk rather than drive in the evenings.
Livadi: the easiest base for beach days and relaxed evenings
Livadi sits directly below Chora, but the contrast between the two is immediate. The valley opens into a long bay with shallow water and a mix of sand and pebbles. The beach is one of the most convenient on the island, and the waterfront is lined with tavernas that stay open late enough to make evenings simple.
Accommodation here is straightforward. Most places are small hotels and studios set just behind the beach. You can walk from your room to the sea in minutes, and the area has enough cafés and restaurants to make it easy to settle into a routine. Livadi is close enough to Chora that you can drive up for dinner or a walk through the castle, but far enough that nights are quieter and the pace is slower.
The valley is green by island standards, with orchards and small gardens that soften the landscape. It is a good base if you want to combine beach time with short excursions. The road to Chora is quick, and the eastern side of the island is easy to reach from here.
Livadi suits families, swimmers and travellers who want a practical base with easy access to the sea. It is also a good choice if you prefer a quieter setting but still want to be close to the capital.
Maltezana (Analipsi): a quiet coastal village with a slower rhythm
Analipsi sits on the eastern side of Astypalaia and feels different from both Chora and Livadi. The bay is long and calm, shaded by tamarisk trees and dotted with small boats. The village has a handful of tavernas, a few cafés and a modest number of hotels and rooms. Many of them have balconies facing the water, and mornings here start with the sound of the sea rather than the noise of a town waking up.
The area is close to the airport, but the airport is small and does not disturb the peace. Analipsi is spread out enough that it never feels crowded, even in August. The atmosphere is quiet, but not isolated. You can walk along the bay, swim in calm water and eat at small tavernas without feeling rushed.
Analipsi suits travellers who want a slower pace and a more local feel. It is a good choice for couples looking for quiet Greek islands for couples, people who prefer quiet evenings and anyone who wants to stay by the sea without the busier atmosphere of Livadi. It also works well if you plan to explore the eastern beaches, which are easier to reach from here than from the other parts of the island.
How to choose the right area
Astypalaia is small enough that you can explore it from any base, but the feel of each area is different enough that your choice will shape your trip.
Chora is the best place to stay if you want atmosphere, views and the ability to walk everywhere. It is ideal for first‑time visitors and anyone who wants to be close to food, nightlife and the castle.
Livadi is the most practical base for beach days and relaxed evenings. It suits families, swimmers and travelers who want a simple, comfortable setting close to Chora.
Maltezana is quieter and more spacious. It works well for couples, people who prefer a slower rhythm and anyone who wants to stay by the sea without the busier feel of Livadi.
What to consider before booking
Astypalaia has a few quirks that are worth keeping in mind when choosing where to stay.
The roads are narrow and winding, especially around Chora. If you plan to stay in the capital, be prepared to park outside the center and walk.
The island has a strong sense of scale. Even short distances can feel longer because of the terrain. If you want to minimize driving, choose Livadi or Maltezana.
The beaches on the eastern side are easier to reach from Maltezana. If you plan to spend a lot of time exploring the coast, this area is convenient.
Chora is lively in the evenings. If you prefer quiet nights, Livadi or Maltezana will suit you better.
Final thoughts
Astypalaia works best when your base matches the kind of trip you want. Some people want the energy and views of Chora, others prefer the beach and easy evenings in Livadi, and some choose the quiet of Maltezana or the convenience of Analipsi. None of these areas are far from each other, but they feel different enough that the choice matters. Once you settle in the right spot, the island becomes very easy to enjoy.
Last Updated on 22/05/2026 by Panos





