Anafi is the island Apollo is said to have revealed to the storm-tossed Argonauts, and it still feels like a refuge today. Lying just east of Santorini at the edge of the Cyclades, Anafi is shaped by quiet nights, sea rhythms, and a slower pace of life. With fewer than 300 residents, no airport, and a rugged coastline of cliffs and sandy beaches, it remains largely untouched. This Anafi Greece travel guide explains how to reach the island, where to stay, and how to explore its beaches, hiking trails, and monasteries. It is written for travelers who value solitude, walking, and unhurried island life.
Table of Contents
Where Is Anafi & Brief History
Anafi lies in the southeastern Cyclades, just 22 kilometers (14 miles) east of Santorini and about 110 kilometers (68 miles) north of Crete. It is a small, rugged island shaped by volcanic forces, with steep cliffs and a coastline that alternates between raw rock and long sandy stretches. The island’s defining landmark is Kalamos Rock, a towering monolith that rises 460 meters (1,510 ft) above the sea and is considered one of the largest in the Mediterranean.
Anafi’s story is layered with myth and history. According to legend, Apollo revealed the island to the Argonauts as a safe haven during a storm, giving Anafi its name, which means “to appear” or “to shine forth.” Archaeological remains confirm that the island was inhabited from early antiquity, with traces of a temple dedicated to Apollo at the site later occupied by the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. During the Byzantine and Venetian periods, Anafi was fortified against pirate raids, while under Ottoman rule it remained a remote outpost with little strategic value.
In the 20th century, Anafi became a place of exile for political dissidents, a history still remembered in local memory. At the same time, its craftsmen left their mark on Athens by building the Anafiotika neighborhood beneath the Acropolis, transplanting Cycladic architecture into the capital. Today, Anafi’s population of fewer than 300 residents maintains a rhythm of life tied to the sea, agriculture, and seasonal visitors, preserving the island’s reputation as one of the least altered corners of the Cyclades.
How to Get to Anafi
Anafi has no airport, so ferries are the only way in.
Athens (Piraeus) to Anafi
Blue Star Ferries run the Athens to Anafi route in 8–11 hours, usually overnight. Arrivals are between 1 and 6 a.m. This is the only option if you want to bring a car or motorbike.
I recommend checking ferry prices via Direct Ferries, which compares multiple operators and schedules.
Santorini to Anafi
The Maistros ferry, run by the Boatmen Union of Santorini, takes about 90 minutes. It sails around three times a week, with more departures in July and August. Foot passengers only. Blue Star Ferries also serves the route and can accommodate vehicles as well.
Connections with other islands
Subsidised long‑haul ferries link Anafi with the Cyclades, Crete and the Dodecanese, including Rhodes, Karpathos, and Kassos. These routes are less frequent and change seasonally.
👉Tip: Book your ferry tickets to Anafi in advance and allow buffer time. Strong meltemi winds in the Cyclades can cause cancellations. I like Direct Ferries because they can find the best connections and prices.
Getting Around Anafi
By car
There are a handful car rental companies in Anafi:
By bus
Anafi has a local bus that handles most passenger transport. The regular route runs between the port (Agios Nikolaos) and Chora, in both directions.
During the summer months an extra service is added that continues all the way to the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi and passes by many of the island’s main beaches along the way.
For the latest Anafi bus timetable, I recommend checking the official Facebook Page of the Municipality of Anafi. Alternatively, you can inquire by e-mail at [email protected] or call (+30) 22860 61266.
By taxi
There are two taxi drivers in Anafi:
- Mr. Giannis: (+30) 6987 950 445
- Mr. Kostas: (+30) 6973 953 947
Where to Stay in Anafi
Below I outline some of the best accommodations in Anafi based on locals’ tips and traveler reviews.
Best Beaches in Anafi
Klisidi Beach
Klisidi is the most accessible beach on Anafi, just a short walk or drive from the port. It has soft sand, clear water, and a couple of tavernas nearby, making it one of the few spots where you can combine swimming with a meal. Because of its convenience, it is often the first stop for visitors and a popular choice for couples staying close to the port.
Katsouni Beach
A fifteen‑minute walk east from Klisidi brings you to Katsouni, a smaller and quieter cove. The sand is fine, the water is crystal clear, and nudism is common here. Its size and seclusion make it one of the most peaceful beaches on the island, ideal if you want to avoid crowds.
Roukounas Beach
Roukounas is Anafi’s longest beach and a favorite for campers. Reached by a fifty‑minute hike from Chora or by boat, it offers tamarisk trees for shade and a rustic taverna set slightly inland. The atmosphere is relaxed and self‑sufficient, with plenty of space to spread out along the sand.
Agioi Anargyri Beach
This tiny, cliff‑backed cove is reached on foot and takes its name from the small chapel that overlooks it. The beach itself is narrow but atmospheric, with a sense of seclusion that appeals to those looking for a quiet swim away from the main routes.
Megas Potamos Beach
For those willing to hike or arrive by boat, Megas Potamos delivers one of the wildest settings on Anafi. The beach is raw and untouched, with open sand and no facilities. It is best suited to visitors who want to experience the island’s rugged side in complete solitude.
Vagia Beach
Vagia Beach lies on Anafi’s remote southwest coast, reached by dirt road or footpath. Pebbly and almost always deserted, it offers raw seclusion, clear waters, and rugged cliffs. With no facilities, it appeals to travelers seeking untouched landscapes.
Best Things to Do in Anafi Beyond the Beaches
Visit Chora
Perched 200 meters (650 ft) above sea level, Chora is Anafi’s main settlement and the island’s social hub. Its whitewashed houses, narrow lanes, and small squares capture the classic Cycladic atmosphere without the crowds. There are three mini‑markets, a handful of tavernas, and some of the best sunset views on the island.
Zoodochos Pigi Monastery
This 10th‑century monastery was built on the foundations of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo, and parts of the original masonry are still visible in its walls. Known locally as Kato Panagia (to distinguish it from Kalamiotissa, or Ano Panagia), the monastery’s single‑domed church preserves a 19th‑century wood‑carved iconostasis and icons painted by the hagiographer Nikolaos Karavias.
In 1774 it was granted stavropegic privileges, placing it under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, though today it is overseen by the Monastery of Profitis Ilias on Santorini. The complex grew over centuries with added chapels and cells, and its courtyards remain a place of quiet reflection.
The monastery celebrates its feast on September 7, when locals gather for one of Anafi’s most important festivals, with services held both here and at Kalamiotissa on the summit of Kalamos Rock. Open only at certain times, it rewards visitors with a blend of myth, history, and living tradition in one of the island’s most atmospheric settings.
Hiking in Anafi: Top Trails to Explore
Kalamos Rock
Kalamos is Anafi’s defining landmark, a 460‑meter (1,510-ft) monolith that rises almost sheer from the sea. It is considered the second‑largest rock formation in Europe after Gibraltar. The trail begins at the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi and takes 50 to 75 minutes to reach the summit. The climb is steady but safe, and the views across the Cyclades are unmatched. This is the best that hiking in Anafi has to offer.
Anafi Coastline Trail
This moderate hike stretches for 8.2 km (5.1 mi) along the island’s southern shore, offering uninterrupted sea views the entire way. It’s a rewarding route for those who want to combine hiking with beach stops, as the path dips toward the coast at several points.
Chora – Katsouni Beach
Starting from Chora, this 5 km (3.1 mi) trail zigzags down through dry, rugged hills before reaching the quiet sands of Katsouni Beach. The moderate descent takes 1.5–2 hours and rewards hikers with sweeping panoramas of the Aegean.
Chora – Kasteli Hill – Panagia Kalamiotissa Loop
At 19 km (11.8 mi), this is Anafi’s most demanding hike, taking 6–7 hours to complete. The circuit links the ruins of ancient Kasteli, small chapels, and the dramatic summit of Panagia Kalamiotissa. It’s a full-day adventure best suited to experienced walkers.
Roukounas Beach Loop
This 3.7 km (2.3 mi) circular trail is an easy option that loops around the rocky southern slopes before descending to Roukounas Beach. Along the way, you’ll pass smaller coves like Mikro Roukounas, making it a relaxed 1–1.5 hour outing.
Zoodochos Pigi – Prassies Beach
A short and gentle 2.1 km (1.3 mi) walk links the Zoodochos Pigi Monastery with Prassies Beach. Taking just 30–60 minutes, it’s a simple way to combine a cultural stop with a refreshing swim.
Chora – Klisidi Beach
This 4 km (2.5 mi) trail descends from Chora to Klisidi, one of Anafi’s most popular beaches. The moderate route takes 1.5–2 hours round trip, making it a convenient half-day excursion.
Katsouni & Flamourou Beaches
At just 1.3 km (0.8 mi), this short descent leads to two secluded coves—Katsouni and Flamourou. It’s a quick 30–60 minute walk, perfect for a swim or a quiet escape.
Agii Anargiri Chapel – Beach – Zoodochos Pigi
This 3.5 km (2.2 mi) loop combines a visit to the small chapel of Agii Anargiri with coastal scenery and a return to Zoodochos Pigi Monastery. The moderate trail takes 1–1.5 hours.
Livoskopos Beach Trail
Covering 10.3 km (6.4 mi), this hike crosses the barren slopes of Vigla Hill before descending to the remote northern beach of Livoskopos. Taking 3.5–4 hours, it offers solitude and expansive sea views.
Sacred Monastery of Virgin Mary the Kalamiotissa
The Sacred Monastery of Virgin Mary Kalamiotissa crowns the summit of Kalamos Rock, Anafi’s 460‑meter monolith and the second‑largest in Europe after Gibraltar. The present church was built in the early 1600s or around 1715, on the ruins of a medieval castle and an older chapel. According to local tradition, its name comes from a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary found hanging from a reed (kalami in Greek).
The monastery is a single‑nave domed church with an 18th‑century carved wooden iconostasis and a double‑arched bell tower. Each year on September 8, locals carry the icon of the Virgin from Zoodochos Pigi Monastery up the steep path to Kalamiotissa, where an all‑night vigil and feast are held. The climb takes about an hour from the lower monastery, and the reward is sweeping views across the Aegean, stretching to Santorini, Amorgos, and Astypalaia. Remote and windswept, Kalamiotissa remains one of Anafi’s most powerful symbols.
Anafi International Film Festival
Each summer, Anafi transforms into an open‑air cinema under the stars. The Anafi International Film Festival brings together locals, travelers, and filmmakers for screenings in village squares, courtyards, and cliffside terraces. The program blends independent films, documentaries, and shorts, creating a cultural highlight that contrasts beautifully with the island’s otherwise tranquil rhythm. More than just movies, it’s a chance to share stories, meet people, and experience Anafi’s nights in a completely different light.
Stargazing
With no airport, little traffic, and minimal artificial light, Anafi has some of the clearest night skies in the Cyclades. On a cloudless evening, the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye, making stargazing one of the simplest but most memorable experiences on the island.
Food & Drink Highlights
Local Delicacies of Anafi
- Anafiot Cheese Pies: Small pastries filled with local goat cheese, often served warm with honey for a sweet‑savory bite.
- Xerotigana: Thin fried dough spirals drizzled with honey and sprinkled with sesame, usually prepared for festive occasions.
- Goat stew with lemon: Slow‑cooked goat in a lemony broth with herbs, a rustic dish tied to the island’s pastoral traditions.
- Fava from Anafi: Creamy yellow split pea purée grown locally, served with olive oil and onions as a Cycladic staple.
- Octopus in wine: Fresh octopus simmered in red wine and spices, a classic meze often paired with local white wine.
- Anafi honey: Produced in small quantities from thyme and wild herbs, known for its strong aroma and rich flavor.
- Local white wine: Dry, robust wine made by small producers, often poured in carafes at tavernas alongside meze plates.
Where to Eat in Anafi
Here are some of the best restaurants, cafes and bakeries on the island:
- Agios Nikolaos (Port)
- Akrogiali: The first restaurant that opened in Anafi in the 1970s serving traditional Cycladic cuisine.
- Florans Cafe: Early‑morning hub at the port, Florans serves strong coffee, simple snacks, and a front‑row view of ferries arriving.
- Chora
- Anemos: Casual rooftop taverna with sweeping Aegean views, serving grilled meats, fresh salads, and local wine until late.
- Astrahan: Atmospheric café‑bar tucked into Chora’s alleys, known for cocktails, eclectic music, and a relaxed crowd gathering after sunset.
- Kafeneio To Paradosiako: Traditional “kafeneio” (Greek-style cafe) with wooden chairs and meze plates, where locals linger over ouzo and conversation in Anafi’s quiet main square.
- Liotrivi Restaurant: Family‑run fish taverna serving the day’s catch, Anafi wine, and grilled octopus, with terrace seating overlooking the Cycladic rooftops.
- Nikolis Bakery: Morning stop for warm bread, cheese pies, and sesame koulouri, fueling hikers and beachgoers before they set out.
- To Petrino: Stone‑walled taverna offering hearty stews, seasonal vegetables, and homemade desserts, a reliable choice for dinner in Anafi’s hilltop town.
- To Steki: Classic Greek taverna with generous portions, friendly service, and a menu spanning moussaka, grilled chicken, and simple island favorites.
- Katsouni beach:
- To Agnanti: Traditional taverna a short walk from the sand, serving fried fish, meze, and cold beer with uninterrupted sea views.
- Roukouna
- Ktima Roukouna: Farm‑to‑table restaurant near Roukounas Beach, featuring homegrown vegetables, rabbit in lemon sauce, and rustic Cycladic cooking in a garden setting.
Practical Tips
Best Time to Visit Anafi
June and September strike the perfect balance: ferries run regularly, the weather is warm without being stifling, and you’ll avoid the peak-season crowds of July and August. Spring (May) and autumn (early October) are also pleasant, but ferry schedules can be thinner, so check connections in advance.
Cash & ATMs
Anafi has very limited banking facilities, and ATMs can run out of cash during busy weeks. Bring enough euros with you to cover accommodation balances, meals, and small purchases. Many family-run tavernas and guesthouses still prefer cash, though some larger establishments may accept cards.
For cheap ATM withdrawals and payments, I highly recommend debit cards by Wise and N26. I have been using them for years with excellent results.
Shops & Supplies
Most shops, bakeries, and mini-markets are clustered in Chora, the island’s main village. Outside Chora, you’ll find only the occasional beach taverna or seasonal kiosk. Stock up on essentials before heading to remote beaches or hiking trails, as options are minimal once you leave the village.
Connectivity & Internet in Anafi
nafi’s signal holds up well around Chora and the port, but once you head toward the long southern beaches or the inland footpaths, coverage thins out quickly. Most guesthouses and cafés offer Wi‑Fi, though it’s noticeably slower than on the bigger Cycladic islands.
👉If you want something that stays consistent while moving around the island, my Greece eSIM guide walks through the network options that actually perform well here.
What to Pack
Bring sturdy shoes for hiking, a refillable water bottle, and sun protection. Shade is scarce on many beaches, so a lightweight umbrella or beach tent can be a lifesaver.
FAQs
Is Anafi worth visiting?
Yes. Anafi is worth visiting if you value solitude, hiking, and authentic island life over nightlife, resorts, and luxury travel.
How do you get from Santorini to Anafi?
You can travel from Santorini to Anafi by ferry, either with the Maistros ferry or Blue Star Ferries. The crossing takes about 90 minutes and runs several times per week in summer.
Does Anafi have hotels?
Yes, Anafi has hotels and guesthouses, but options are limited. Accommodation mainly consists of small boutique hotels and family-run rooms, so booking early is recommended.
What are the best beaches in Anafi?
Some of the best beaches in Anafi include Klisidi Beach, Katsouni Beach, Roukounas Beach, and Agioi Anargyri Beach. Many other quiet and undeveloped beaches can be reached on foot or by boat.
Final Thoughts
Anafi is not a place that tries to impress. It does not offer instant gratification or curated perfection. What it gives is space, quiet, and the kind of simplicity that feels increasingly rare.
This is an island where time stretches. Ferries arrive when they can. Meals are slow and honest. The landscape is dry, open, and unfiltered. You wake up to silence, not spectacle. You walk, you swim, you sit. And somewhere in that rhythm, Anafi begins to feel like yours.
It is not for everyone. But if you value solitude, clarity, and the absence of noise, Anafi will stay with you long after you leave.
Where to Go Next
Anafi fits naturally into a quiet Cyclades island-hopping itinerary, especially for travelers moving between quieter islands and better-connected hubs. Ferries are limited but strategic, making Anafi a rewarding stop if you plan your route with flexibility.
- Santorini: The main gateway to Anafi. While famously busy, Santorini offers frequent ferry connections, an airport, and easy onward travel, making it a practical link rather besides a destination in itself for many travelers.
- Thirasia: Santorini’s quieter sibling. Thirasia shares the same volcanic landscape but with a slower pace, traditional villages, and far fewer visitors.
- Amorgos: A favorite for hikers and slow travelers, Amorgos combines dramatic landscapes, clear waters, and strong local culture, with direct ferry links to Anafi on select routes.
- Sikinos: Small, understated, and deeply traditional, Sikinos appeals to travelers who enjoy simplicity, walking trails, and low-key village life.
- Folegandros: Known for its striking cliffs and beautiful Chora, Folegandros balances raw landscapes with just enough infrastructure to remain comfortable without feeling overdeveloped.
- Ios: Often associated with nightlife, Ios also has a quieter side with excellent beaches and inland walking trails, making it a flexible stop depending on your travel style.
- Astypalaia (Dodecanese): A natural continuation beyond the Cyclades. Astypalaia blends Cycladic architecture with Dodecanese character and works well for travelers extending their journey east.
Last Updated on 03/02/2026 by Panos
