The northern taiga of Mongolia is one of the most remote regions in Asia, a vast forest stretching toward the Siberian border. Within this wilderness live the Tsaatan reindeer herders, a small community whose survival depends on seasonal migration and their close relationship with reindeer.
Reaching the Tsaatan is often described as the quintessential Mongolian expedition. It is a demanding journey that involves long overland drives, rough tracks, and hours on horseback before the first teepees appear in a forest clearing. The reward is the chance to understand a way of life that has almost disappeared elsewhere, shaped by herding, movement, and traditions tied to the taiga.
This guide explains how to visit the Tsaatan reindeer herders in Mongolia responsibly, combining cultural background, practical details, and ethical considerations so that your journey supports the community as much as it inspires you.
My guide is based on verified local sources and on-the-ground travel research in Khovsgol Province (updated 2025).
Table of Contents
Who Are the Tsaatan People?
Origins and Identity
The Tsaatan, also known as the Dukha, are one of Mongolia’s smallest ethnic minorities and among the last communities in the world to practice reindeer herding. Their ancestors migrated centuries ago from Tuva, across the Russian border, bringing with them a close bond with reindeer. Today, only a few hundred Tsaatan remain, living in small family groups in northern Khovsgol Province near the Siberian taiga.
East and West Taiga Communities
The Tsaatan are divided into two main groups: the East Taiga and the West Taiga. Around 14 families, roughly 40 people, live in the East Taiga, which is the area most accessible to visitors. The West Taiga is even more remote, with limited outside contact. Seasonal migration means camps shift up to 15 times a year as families move to find fresh lichen for their reindeer.
Reindeer at the Center of Life
Reindeer provide milk, cheese, hides, and transport. They are used for carrying loads and occasionally for riding, though they are rarely slaughtered for meat. In Tsaatan shamanic belief, reindeer are sacred beings that connect humans to the spirit world. Rituals and ceremonies often center on the health and well‑being of the herds.
The Role of Zaya
Most visitors meet the Tsaatan through Zaya, the only English‑speaking resident of the East Taiga. Born in Mongolia but raised partly abroad, she chose to live with the community after marrying a Tsaatan man. Her presence has been essential in bridging the gap between the herders and outside visitors. Interestingly, her presence has also sparked rumors and misunderstandings among other Mongolians, some of whom think she is under the influence of the local Shaman.
Historical Pressures and Discrimination
The Tsaatan reindeer herders have long lived on the edge of both geography and society. Under communism, collectivization and hunting bans disrupted their nomadic traditions and reduced independence. After the Soviet Union collapsed, some families resettled permanently in Mongolia, where they were granted citizenship. Yet prejudice lingers: many Mongolians still see them as outsiders because of their Siberian roots and distinct lifestyle.
This stigma often plays out in personal ways. Zaya, an American‑Mongolian who once lived in the U.S. and studied in China, is often rumored to have been “bewitched” by a shaman to explain why she chose to marry into the community and remain in the Taiga. For her, it’s simply a life she loves. Like many Indigenous groups worldwide, the Tsaatan face misunderstanding and discrimination, but their character continues to define them.
Tourism and Modern Challenges
Tourism has become both a source of income and a challenge. While visits provide families with cash for medicine, education, and supplies, unmanaged tourism risks commodifying their culture and straining the fragile environment of the taiga. Balancing cultural preservation with economic survival is one of the community’s most pressing issues today.
The Long Journey to the Reindeer Herders
Step 1: Getting to Murun
This is the biggest town in northern Mongolia and a good place to start your expedition. You can either take a domestic flight or embark on a long overland drive to Murun, the provincial capital of Khovsgol. Murun is the last major town with markets, guesthouses, and basic services.
👉 Make sure to stock up on cash and supplies before heading deeper into the north.
Step 2: Murun to Tsagaannuur
The next stage is the journey from Murun to Tsagaannuur, a small settlement in the Darkhad Valley near the Russian border, west of Lake Khuvsgul (another lovely place; check out this Lake Khuvsgul itinerary). The drive takes around 9-12 hours by jeep (Google Maps shows less, but this is inaccurate), sometimes longer depending on weather and road conditions. Shared vans also operate this route, offering a cheaper but slower and less comfortable option. Tsagaannuur is the gateway to the taiga, and it is where permits are checked and final arrangements are made.
Step 3: Horse Trek into the Taiga
From Tsagaannuur, vehicles can go no further. The final approach to the Tsaatan camps is made on horseback, with treks lasting between four and eight hours depending on the season and the location of the herders. The route crosses rivers, open steppe, and dense forest, gradually climbing into the cooler, pine-scented air of the taiga. Because the Tsaatan move their camps up to 15 times a year, the exact journey varies.
The remoteness of the Tsaatan is part of what makes the experience so striking. Their camps are tucked into forest clearings far from towns, with reindeer grazing nearby and teepees rising against the backdrop of the taiga. For travelers, the journey itself is a reminder of how isolated and self-sufficient this community remains, even in the twenty-first century.
What to Expect When Staying With the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders
Arrival and Setup
Most visits begin by meeting Zaya in Murun or Tsagaannuur, depending on transport. From there, the journey continues by jeep across rough roads before switching to horseback for the final approach into the taiga. On arrival, visitors are usually accommodated in a spare urt (teepee) arranged by Zaya. Inside, a stove provides warmth, with rugs and bedding laid out around the fire. Facilities are minimal: no running water, no showers, and an outdoor pit toilet.
The Camp in the Taiga
The Tsaatan live in seasonal camps deep in the northern forests, where families set up urts (also called ortz) stitched from canvas and hides. These conical dwellings are adapted to the Siberian climate, with central stoves that heat the interior during long winters. The fire is the heart of daily life, used for cooking, warmth, and gathering.
Daily Rhythms and Work: Life Among the Reindeer
Reindeer are central to Tsaatan survival and identity. Herds move quietly through the forest and meadows, some tethered near the urts while others graze freely. They provide milk, hides, and transport, and they hold deep spiritual significance in Tsaatan shamanic traditions.
A typical day begins at dawn with the milking of reindeer. The milk is used to make yogurt, cheese, and the slightly sour reindeer milk tea that sustains families in the taiga. Children grow up closely connected to the animals, while older herders focus on herd health and training reindeer to carry loads.
Food and Hospitality
Meals are simple but nourishing. Families prepare stews, dairy products, and dried curds, often sharing them with guests. Reindeer milk tea is served throughout the day, and fresh cream is considered a delicacy. Hospitality is central to Tsaatan culture, and even with language barriers, visitors are welcomed with generosity.
Nights in the Urts
Staying overnight means sleeping inside an urt warmed by the stove. The sounds of the taiga — reindeer shifting outside, firewood crackling, and quiet voices — create an atmosphere far removed from modern Mongolia.
The Landscape of the Taiga
A Wilderness of Forest and Water
The taiga of northern Mongolia is a vast wilderness of larch and pine forests, stretching across the border into Siberia. The air carries the sharp scent of resin, and the ground is often damp with moss, bog, and peat. Streams and creeks cut through the clearings, their water icy and clear, sustaining both people and animals. For travelers heading to the Tsaatan reindeer herders, this is the environment that defines daily life.
Summer in the Taiga
In summer, the taiga feels alive in a raw and overwhelming way. Clouds of insects are constant companions, buzzing around both humans and reindeer. Yet this nuisance is balanced by abundance: horses and yaks graze near the camps, sheep wander the meadows, and the forests echo with bird calls. Wildlife sightings are possible, from deer in the distance to smaller animals moving through the undergrowth. The long days of summer bring both beauty and challenges, with boggy ground that can trap hooves and boots alike.
Winter in the Taiga
Winter transforms the taiga into a frozen world. Temperatures plunge far below zero, and snow locks the forests for months. During this season, Tsaatan families move their reindeer to lower ground, where the animals dig through snow to find lichen. Survival depends on careful migration and the ability to adapt to extreme cold. For visitors, this is the most difficult time to reach the community, but it also reveals the resilience required to live in such an environment.
A Harsh but Sacred Home
The taiga is not an easy landscape. It demands resilience, resourcefulness, and a deep knowledge of the land. Yet for the Tsaatan, it is more than a backdrop; it is home, woven into their traditions, spirituality, and survival. The forests, rivers, and meadows are inseparable from their identity as reindeer herders. For travelers, understanding the taiga is essential to understanding the Tsaatan themselves.
Practical Information
Visiting the Tsaatan in Mongolia requires patience, preparation, and the right local support. The essentials below are based on reliable travel reports, local contacts, and community recommendations.
Contacting Zaya: The Key Person for Visiting the Tsaatan
One way to plan your visit to the Tsaatan is through Zaya, the only English-speaking resident of the community. She organizes permits, transport, and horses, ensuring that income goes directly to the families. Be aware that she usually does not have mobile reception, so it may take a while to get a response. Therefore, it is best to start your preparations well in advance.
- WhatsApp: +976 9977 0480
- Email: [email protected]
If Zaya is unavailable, Erdene’s Guesthouse in Tsagaannuur or Bata’s Guesthouse in Murun can act as backups. However, direct contact with her is the best approach.
Her story itself is fascinating: Zaya is of Mongolian origin, but grew up in the US and studied in China. After marrying a local man, she moved to the taiga to live with the Tsaatan. I loved the video below:
How to Get Your Border Permit to Visit the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders in Mongolia
The Tsaatan camps lie within a restricted border zone near Russia, which means a special permit is required. Permits are typically arranged in Murun and cost only a few dollars per person. Plan to spend one full day in Murun to get your official permit to visit the Tsaatan reindeer herders in northern Mongolia. Don’t expect shortcuts here; this is Mongolian bureaucracy at its finest.
The simplest way is to let Zaya handle the permit process for you. The cost is only about $5 per person, which covers both the official fee and the small cut for the person running the errand.
Here’s how it works in practice: as soon as you arrive in Murun, head straight to Bata’s Guesthouse. Bata works with Zaya, and once you hand over your passports, Bata willtake them to the TCVC tourism office in charge of Taiga permits. Bata will then wait around until the documents are processed and bring them back to you.
(Fun fact: Zaya actually worked with the organization that first set up this permit system back in 2006, which is how she ended up living in the Taiga.)
Alternative Way to Visit the Tsaatan
👉If you do not manage to get in contact with Zaya, or if you want a more streamlined experience, I highly recommend this guided Mongolia reindeer tribe tour by Maral Expedition, a very reputable provider.
How to Reach the Tsaatan Tribe
In a nutshell, the journey unfolds in 3 stages:
- Ulaanbaatar (or other places like the Gobi desert, Ongi Monastery or Orkhon valley) to Murun: By domestic flight or overland drive.
- Murun to Tsagaannuur: A 9-12 hour drive by jeep or shared van. Roads are rough and unpredictable.
- Tsagaannuur to the Taiga: From this border town, vehicles cannot continue. The final approach is on horseback, usually four to eight hours depending on the camp’s seasonal location.
Packing List for Visiting the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders in Mongolia
When you set off for the Taiga, you’ll leave your main luggage behind in Tsagaannuur. Trust me, you don’t want to drag a full backpack across rivers and forest trails on horseback. What matters is what you carry in your (small) backpack for the reindeer herder camp.
- Sleeping gear – sleeping bag and mat are usually provided, but confirm in advance.
- Warm outerwear – a solid coat plus a lighter fleece for layering.
- Base layers – leggings, t-shirts, and a long-sleeve. Even in summer, weather swings from hot sun to biting cold.
- Socks for sleeping – thick wool socks make nights far more comfortable.
- Camp shoes – sandals or slip-ons for moving around the teepee.
- Riding shoes – sturdy sneakers or boots for horseback travel.
- Snacks – meals are filling, but there’s nothing between them except salty reindeer milk tea. Bring trail mix, chocolate, or energy bars for the long rides.
- Filtered water bottle – a Lifestraw or similar is non-negotiable. Water comes straight from rivers shared with livestock.
- Wipes and sanitizer – no running water, so this is your hygiene baseline.
- Camera gear – both cameras and drones are fine to use.
- Cash for souvenirs – families sell carved antlers and fur crafts, usually $3–$30.
👉Note: Don’t overpack clothing. You’ll wear the same outfit with layers added or removed. There’s no shower, and nobody cares what you look like.
Donations for the Tsaatan Reindeer Tribe
Bringing gifts is part of the exchange. You’re staying in their home, eating their food, and relying on their hospitality. Think of donations as a cultural expectation, not an optional extra.
Here’s what to bring, based on local advice:
- Batteries (AA & AAA)
- Boxes of tea
- Cigarettes (small carton, ~10 packs)
- Coloring books for children
- Hand lotion
- Laundry soap bars
- Lighters and candles – always useful
- Matches (large packs)
If you have some more spare room, the Tsaatan also appreciate the following items:
- Cooking essentials – oil
- Dental supplies – toothpaste, brushes, floss
- First aid basics – bandages, antiseptic
- Fresh vegetables – these are rare luxuries in the Taiga
- Salt for the reindeer – their favorite treat
- Simple wristwatches working on batteries – women keep strict milking schedules and these are very useful
- Wind-up flashlights – reduces dependence on batteries
- Wool socks – winters are brutal
Visiting the Shaman
If you are interested in the spiritual side of the Tsaatan, you can meet the community’s shaman. In this case, you’ll need to bring specific offerings:
- $100
- 1 liter of vodka
- Cigarettes
- Cookies or candy
- Milk
Cost of Visiting the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders
Expect to pay around $300 per person (as of 2025) for a 3-day, 2-night stay with the Tsaatan reindeer herders, starting from Tsagaannuur.
This usually includes:
- Guesthouse stay in Tsagaannuur before and after the trip
- Jeep transfer to the horses
- Horseback ride to the camp
- Accommodation in a teepee
- All meals during your stay
The only extra costs are donations and optional transport from Murun. A private vehicle from Murun adds $300–$400 total, which can be split among your group.
Responsible Tourism in the Taiga
Respect for Culture and Privacy
The Tsaatan are not a tourist attraction but a community with fragile traditions. Visitors should ask before taking photographs, avoid entering urts without permission, and focus on genuine interaction rather than constant picture-taking.
Supporting Families Directly
Tourism provides income that helps families access medicine, education, and supplies. Choosing guides who work directly with the community ensures that money stays in the taiga.
Environmental Awareness
The taiga is fragile. Horses can damage bogs, and waste lingers for years. Visitors should carry out all non-biodegradable items, minimize plastic use, and leave no trace.
Understanding Challenges
The Tsaatan are not frozen in time. Some young people move to towns for education, while others continue herding. Their numbers have declined, and they face challenges from reindeer disease, climate change, and shifting borders. A respectful visit means acknowledging both the beauty and the difficulties of their present reality.
Why Visiting the Tsaatan is Worth It
A visit to the Tsaatan reindeer tribe in Mongolia is not just another activity, but an encounter with one of the world’s last reindeer‑herding cultures. The journey into the taiga is long and demanding, but it offers travelers a rare chance to witness a way of life shaped by migration, resilience, and deep spiritual ties to reindeer.
What makes the experience meaningful is not only the beauty of the landscape but the opportunity to support families directly and engage with traditions that are increasingly fragile. By traveling responsibly, working with community contacts such as Zaya, and respecting cultural boundaries, visitors help ensure that tourism strengthens rather than harms the Tsaatan. If you are seeking an authentic nomadic experience in your Mongolia itinerary, few journeys carry such depth, responsibility, and reward.
Last Updated on 15/11/2025 by Panos
