How to Visit the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders in Mongolia: Permits, Costs & What to Expect

The community is commonly called Tsaatan in Mongolia, a term associated with reindeer herding, while Dukha is also widely used for the people themselves. They are a small Tuvan-speaking community whose families live in seasonal camps in the taiga around Tsagaannuur soum, close to Mongolia’s border with Russia.

Their way of life is very different from the sheep-, goat-, cattle- and horse-herding culture travelers encounter across most of Mongolia. Reindeer are used primarily for milk, transport and carrying loads and are deeply tied to the social and spiritual life of the community.

Families move between seasonal grazing areas as the condition of lichen, snow, insects and weather changes. That mobility is important for travelers to understand because the camp you visit in June may be nowhere near the camp used later in summer or winter.

For a first visit, I would usually choose the East Taiga. It is still extremely remote, but the logistics are generally easier and community-based visitor arrangements are better established.

The West Taiga makes more sense if the journey itself is a major part of what you want, you have extra days and you are comfortable with longer horse travel and more uncertainty.

DIY is possible in the sense that you do not need to buy a large international package. The final approach into the taiga is not something I would try to improvise alone. You need local knowledge to locate the current camp, arrange horses and travel safely through bogs, rivers and forest trails.

Best for simpler logistics

Lake Khuvsgul and Tsaatan Reindeer Herders Visit in Northern Mongolia

If you want the taiga experience without coordinating vehicles, permits, guesthouses, horse guides and camp logistics yourself, this is the organized itinerary I would look at first.

The current itinerary runs for around 10 days from Ulaanbaatar and combines Lake Khuvsgul, Murun, the Tsagaannuur region and the horse approach to a reindeer-herding camp. Because camp locations move seasonally, the exact taiga routing can change.

10 days Private tour Ulaanbaatar start Domestic flight Horse trek Tsaatan camp Lake Khuvsgul

The listing expects at least moderate physical fitness, which makes sense: this is not a conventional sightseeing tour. You still get the long drives, basic camps and several hours in the saddle; the operator simply removes most of the organizational headache.

I have not taken this specific Maral Expedition departure. I recommend it because the route and inclusions solve most of the difficult northern Mongolia logistics. Before booking, check the current itinerary, group size, horse-riding expectations and whether the required border-zone permit is arranged for you.

Check the Tsaatan & Lake Khuvsgul tour

Affiliate disclosure: I may earn a commission if you book through the Viator link above, at no additional cost to you.

Yes, for travel into the restricted taiga border zone. Current 2026 operators still treat the Tsaatan region near Tsagaannuur as requiring a separate border permit. Do not assume that reaching Tsagaannuur itself means you can continue into the taiga without the required documentation.

The exact issuing process and fee have varied over time. Permits have been arranged through local organizers in Murun and Tsagaannuur, while current tour operators generally process the paperwork in advance. If you are traveling independently, confirm the current procedure before leaving Ulaanbaatar and allow extra time in case processing is not immediate.

A local arrangement involved leaving passport details with Bata’s Guesthouse in Murun, which coordinated the paperwork through contacts working with Zaya. The permit and handling charge was then quoted at roughly $5 per person.

Treat that figure only as a local benchmark, not a current fixed government tariff. For current and later trips, send the requested passport details in advance and confirm the current fee, processing time and guide requirements directly with your organizer.

Zaya has long been one of the most useful contacts for travelers heading to the East Taiga. She has lived within the community, speaks fluent English and has helped coordinate horses, transport, accommodation and communication between visitors and Tsaatan families.

These contact details are still widely listed for Zaya, but because phone numbers and availability can change in remote Mongolia, confirm that you have reached the correct person before sending documents or money:

• WhatsApp: +976 9977 0480
• Email: [email protected]

Do not expect an instant reply. Reception in the taiga is intermittent and she may be away from connectivity for days. Contact her well before your trip.

If you cannot reach her, guesthouses in Tsagaannuur can help arrange a horse guide and family visit, while Bata’s Guesthouse in Murun remains a useful northern Mongolia contact.

Accommodation is usually in a spare ortz or visitor tent arranged near the family camp. Expect a stove, basic bedding and very little else. There may be no running water, no shower and only a simple outdoor toilet.

The stove matters. Even in summer, nights in the taiga can become cold quickly. You may go to sleep warm and wake later when the fire dies down.

Daily life is not scheduled for visitors

Reindeer need to be milked, moved, checked and brought to suitable grazing. Families cook, gather fuel, fetch water and deal with the same practical work whether guests are there or not.

That is a feature, not a deficiency. A good visit means spending time around the camp and understanding ordinary routines rather than expecting a continuous program of demonstrations.

Food

Meals are simple and filling: meat dishes, dairy products, bread, tea and whatever supplies have made it into the taiga. Reindeer milk and dairy products are part of the food culture, but you should not expect every meal to revolve around reindeer.

Bring snacks for the horse journey. Once you leave Tsagaannuur, there is no shop around the corner if you suddenly decide you need chocolate.

Nights

Nights are quiet except for the stove, animals and people moving around the camp. It is also when the lack of normal travel infrastructure becomes most obvious. There is no hotel reception, hot shower or charger beside your bed.

Northern Mongolia’s taiga is Siberian forest rather than open steppe: larch and pine, moss, streams, peat and wet ground. That explains both the reindeer and the difficult access.

Summer

Summer brings long daylight hours and the most accessible conditions for most travelers, but it is not necessarily dry or easy. Trails can be muddy and boggy, river levels matter and insects can be relentless.

Winter

Winter is an entirely different expedition. Temperatures can fall far below freezing, camps move according to winter grazing and the consequences of inadequate clothing or weak logistics become much more serious. For a winter visit, use an experienced operator that regularly works in the taiga and can confirm current access, equipment and emergency arrangements.

Prices vary enormously because a short locally arranged stay from Tsagaannuur and a fully supported 10–14 day expedition from Ulaanbaatar are completely different products.

For a community-arranged trip, always request a fresh quote. Fuel, horses, camp location, guide requirements and group size can all change the price from one season to the next.

For organized trips, compare what the price actually includes: Ulaanbaatar hotel nights, domestic flights, guide, private vehicle, horses, meals, permit handling and time at Lake Khuvsgul can easily explain why two apparently similar tours differ by more than $1,000. Published 2026 prices also vary sharply with group size, so compare the price for your actual number of travelers rather than the headline “from” rate.

Leave your main luggage in Tsagaannuur or wherever your organizer recommends. A small soft bag or backpack is much easier to manage on a horse than a large rigid suitcase.

Useful gifts depend on what a family actually needs at the time. Common suggestions have included batteries, tea, soap, children’s supplies, candles, cooking oil, dental supplies, warm socks and salt for the reindeer.

For 2026 and beyond, ask your local contact what the family currently needs before shopping. Needs change, and repeated donations of the same item are less useful than supplies requested by the household.

Practical items that have repeatedly been appreciated include:

• AA or AAA batteries
• Tea and basic food supplies
• Laundry soap
• Toothbrushes and toothpaste
• Simple first-aid supplies
• Hand lotion
• Wind-up or rechargeable lights
• Warm wool socks
• Fresh vegetables when transport allows
• Salt for reindeer, if your hosts specifically recommend it

Do not bring cigarettes or alcohol simply because an old packing list recommends them. If the family or organizer specifically requests something, follow that advice; otherwise practical household supplies are a better default.

What about visiting a shaman?

Shamanism remains important within Tsaatan culture, but a ceremony should not be treated like an attraction with a fixed entrance fee.

There is no universal current tariff for meeting a shaman. Cash, vodka, cigarettes, sweets and milk have all appeared in past descriptions of customary offerings, but requirements vary. If you are genuinely interested in a meeting or ceremony, tell your community contact in advance and follow their guidance on whether it is appropriate and what offering should be brought.

Ask before photographing people

A beautiful camp is not an invitation to photograph every person in it. Ask before portraits, especially around children, private family moments or religious practices.

Do not assume drones are welcome

A drone can disturb people, horses and reindeer and is much more intrusive than a normal camera. Always ask your hosts and guide before flying one, and accept a refusal without argument.

Keep money connected to the community

A cheap outside operator is not automatically a better deal if little of the payment reaches the people providing horses, accommodation and hospitality. Ask how local guides and families are paid.

Do not perform “authenticity” tests

Solar panels, phones, motorcycles, school attendance or modern clothes do not make a family less Tsaatan. This is a living community, not a reconstruction of how outsiders imagine reindeer herders should live.

Carry your waste out

The taiga has very limited waste infrastructure. Batteries, wipes, wrappers and plastic should leave with you rather than becoming somebody else’s problem.

Around Lake Khuvsgul you may encounter reindeer-related cultural experiences or meet people connected with northern reindeer-herding traditions. That can be worthwhile, but it is not the same as traveling west through Tsagaannuur and riding into a seasonal East or West Taiga camp.

If your priority is the lake itself — hiking, horse riding, ger camps and the landscape around Khatgal — see my dedicated Lake Khuvsgul travel guide .

For a multi-day stay near a working reindeer-herding camp, plan specifically for the Tsagaannuur and taiga route rather than assuming a Lake Khuvsgul visit reaches the same communities.

Yes — if you are interested enough in the people and the taiga to accept what the trip actually requires.

Do not add it to a Mongolia itinerary only because photographs of reindeer and ortz look extraordinary. The real experience includes a long road to Tsagaannuur, hours on horseback, cold nights, limited washing, basic food and long periods when daily life simply continues around you.

That is also why the journey has such potential. By the time you reach the camp, you have crossed from Mongolia’s open steppe into the forested Sayan world and into a pastoral culture that feels very different from the rest of the country.

If that sounds appealing rather than inconvenient, give the trip enough days, arrange it through people who know the community and approach the stay as time in someone’s home rather than a checklist of photographs.